A Travellerspoint blog

Jesus Take the Wheel

Ikaria, Greece


The other day I was floating on my back in the clear blue Aegean Sea praying to God. I was praying for two things in particular:

1) To be providde with everything I would need to see the beautiful country of Greece financially and emotionally
2) To learn to put love and faith in times of impatience and temperament

Isn't it ironic how God always seems to provide? Just days later both of my prayer requests have been graciously answered! I am now living with the most astounding girl I have ever met! She is my soul mate! Her name is Georgia! She is from Chicago and is letting me stay with her for a few weeks, while her and I take trips to the local islands and to Santorini at the end of the month-where afterwards I have decided to travel on my own. And even though I am very fond of the idea of hostels and love them, I am travelling alone and for the sake of keeping my loving Uncle from having another heart attack I have decided to stay in hotels.

As for Aiyos, I have met some of the most amazing and interesting people in my life. I have even been offered jobs to tutor people English. I am so grateful for my time here as that I have been able to experience the Greek culture in ways I wouldn't be able to otherwise! God has really opened an amazing door for me to continue to travel all over Greece and Turkey during the next month or so! As many of you know I am quite the planner and a control freak and letting God take the wheel is a bit of a challenge for me, however, if you have yet to do so: DO IT! I am freely roaming Greece, living with an amazing girl, dating the sweetest guy (again, not part of the plan), tutoring genuinely good-hearted people English, and somehow or another God has provided! Letting go of the wheel, was the best decision I ever made! I am also incredibly blessed for the people not only here who support me but the people in America: my loving and supportive mother and father, my endearing grandparents, my enthusiastic uncle's and aunt's and god mother, my crazy-fun-goofy-loving boss, and my dearest and truest best friend! I am so grateful and blessed to have each of you in my life and I love you all!

P.S. Here is the best advice, I ever received:
"My advice to you is enjoy life to the fullest. Keep God as your pilot and best friend. Don't become dependent on any one person for anything be it love, friendship, or money. Protect yourself from the liars and emotionally needy. Help but don't drown yourself in the process. Do good by others but be on guard that others won’t do right by you. Save something every month even if it only $100 save it as it is an investment into yourself. Don't settle for less than what makes you full of passion be it a job or a man. Remember you cannot change or fix anyone so quit trying otherwise you will bankrupt your own well of happiness. Keep your faith in God no matter what." --- Diane Matthews (my mom)



Finding my path in the Aegean Blue Sea

Finding my path in the Aegean Blue Sea

Posted by Rachelabby 23:36 Archived in Greece Comments (2)

Eel Infested Waters, Secret Gardens, and Greek Nights!

Ikaria, Greece Summer 2011

sunny 35 °C

Okay spoiler alert: I have no pictures for these events! I know it's terrible but I unfortunately didn't have my camera during these amazing adventures!

The Secret Garden
On Friday, I went with Demetria and the 2 youngest up to the tip top of the mountain of Ikaria to take their Uncle Jimmy home. He is 100 years old and lives in a house that is 400 years old! While we were up there, the girls and Demetria insisted that I go with them on this hike, they would not tell me where we would end up but that the rocky and thorn inducing hike was worth it-AND IT WAS! We ended up in this unknown, abandoned, beautiful, secret garden! It was unbelievable! There were 2 houses, a pond, and area surround by a garden of where people use to live that had just been abandoned. I saw on the trees that were so wide (which means they are very old) they had so many names and dates carved into them. Demetria told me that she even recognized one name as her grandfather! Can you imagine? Being in the same place that your grandfather was at---that not too many people doesn't even know exist? We explored around the place it was so unbelievable- I promise I will go back and take pictures! Then I noticed 2 beautiful, small butterflies and I told Demetria. She said that every time they come up here those exact two butterflies are always here! She believes it is her grandparents reincarnated and here to protect them! As Ana and I walked through the garden, we had the most intense moment of when we took one step into a certain place HUNDREDS of butterflies flew up and kissed us! It was so intense, beautiful, and amazing!

Searching for Buried Treasure and Swimming in Eel Infested Waters
On Saturday, Ana and I went to Pneouski beach and rock climbed the cliffs over to a remote beach. Here we found these tunnels/caves that we through. It was so beautiful! We climbed through the tunnels on our knees as it was so low, then we found a spot that had water in it with the sun shining through from above it was magical! I went diving with the kids goggles and looked down it was amazing! I felt like I was a treasure hunter looking for treasure below! Then as we were swimming back, we noticed there were eel holes below us-alright no big deal...wait! What is that beside us?! AN EEL! What's that on the other side of us?! ANOTHER EEL! There were a total of 6 EELS AROUND US! I didn't want to notify Ana at first but then she saw them! She flipped! We started swimming back faster and then Ana got tired so I helped her back as well. But you'd be amazed how much faster you will swim when you notice you are surrounded by eels!

Greek Nights
I am in absolute love with the night life here! We go out at midnight and don't come till 7am! It's so amazing! And my Greek friends are the absolute best! We have so much fun together and NO DRAMA!!! Oh and my new favvvvorite drink? Orange juice and vodka thanks to George! It's so good! I love it! And my number one reason for going out? Is the Sunrise! It takes my breath away; it’s my favorite thing about Ikaria! I am in heaven every time I see it!

Posted by Rachelabby 08:09 Archived in Greece Comments (0)


Greece 2011

sunny 32 °C

So being an Au Pair for a Greek-American family most defiantly is amazing! Let’s start from the beginning.
On Monday, we left Wilmington… 6 hours later than we said we would. This wouldn’t be a big deal to drive up to D.C. and later to New York, however, in care full of 5 people and 7 suitcases things get tight! I am responsible for 3 kids; I have my hands full this summer! P.S. Did I mention they are all girls?
We travelled from America to Greece over four days. We arrived in Athens during the riots and strikes; however, it was not nearly as bad as the news had made it. Yes there were bombs being thrown but not near the airport, it was more in the city. It didn’t affect our travel. In Athens, we went to this quaint little restaurant on the 25th of March. In Greece, many streets are named after dates-not that the dates have any meaning just dates. There I received my first true Greek meal: A Greek salad, fries, Souvlaki, and a Light Coca Cola (yes you read that right Light not Diet, which is way better than Diet! And no a Diet coke is not the same as a Light Coke). A Greek Salad is nothing like an American Greek salad (ya know the one’s you get at Pita Delight or Zoë’s Kitchen) it is actually cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, green peppers, and a block of Feta cheese tossed in olive oil. It’s delicious! French fries are also different, they are not crinkled, or thick, or thin. They are simply potatoes fried-but they are not potato wedges then tossed in a Greek garlic salt. Souvlaki is basically chicken and pork on a stick with fresh lemon squeezed over them. We stayed at this enchanting hotel in Athens called Peri Hotel. We had our own porch with patio furniture were breakfast was served and the most helpful staff you could imagine.
On Thursday, we left Athens for Ikaria (pronounced Eek-kar-rea), which apparently is one of the places that has been researched by National Geographic of why people live to be 100+ years old! It is mainly because of the food here is so organic and healthy (there is an inactive volcano which makes the soil very fertile), everyone walks everywhere and burn calories effortlessly (see the picture of the stairs I climb 3 times daily), and they take naps every day. With that being said the town runs on different schedule that America would. In America, stores stay open from 9-5 for the most part. Here stores and the bank stay open from 7am to 1pm. Some café’s stay open but not restaurants. The restaurants typically open again about 5 or 6. During these hours nothing is open people go to the beach, to a café, or home to nap. Greeks and Ikarians do not believe in working hard like Americans do. In America, we love our job (I know I love working at Matt McGraw Photography =p) and most of us prefer to work harder, longer for the money and the “pleasure” it will one day bring us. In Greece, they work but hate to work and they make it known they hate to work. They much rather enjoy life. In America, the phrase “to enjoy life” means after getting off work go to the bar to have a drink with some buddies or just get drunk for no reason. As Greeks do love to drink (that’s something we will discuss later), they love to hike or explore the country surrounding them, go swimming in the clear blue water, or just sit at the café with a coffee and look at the world. I do not know of anyone in America that would just sit and look at the world, Americans don’t have the patience to do such a thing and we always feel rushed like we have to get to the next thing.
We are staying with the mother’s mother (the grandmother) here in Ikaria. Yai Yai (which means grandmother in Greek) lives on a Greek farm, which is different than I projected of where we would be. We have pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks. She also has lemon trees, fig trees, apricots, peaches, eggplant, potatoes, green beans, lettuce, tomatoes, olives, and plums and she gets her eggs from the chickens. So nearly everything we eat is freshly grown right here. And yesterday I found out they get there meat from the pig, aka the point of the pig is to grow it and make it huge and fat and then kill it to eat it. There is a great chance I will now be a vegetarian, especially considering tomorrow we are to “slaughter” the pig.
Yai Yai is a traditional European grandmother. She does everything, while everyone around her relaxes. It drives me nuts! She won’t let me help with anything (my Mimi would never allow such a thing). She gets upset if you do. She is also a pack-rat; we have things in this house from the 1800’s! Yai Yai is 87 years old, she hears perfectly well and is in great shape, and she speaks both Greek and English. Oh by the way, another reason National Geographic wanted to research this island is because no one has ever had dementia in Ikaria. Yai Yai was once even proposed by an African prince but told him no on account of his skin color (we had a long discussion about this yesterday morning). She lives by the rules of the “old country” and parts of me respect for that and other parts I feel she is being stubborn but when you are 87 years old there isn’t much room to change, so I keep my mouth shut (aren’t you surprised?). But Yai Yai is very sweet and she is just cute with her little walker and her hair pinned back. She is shorter than me! By nearly a foot! I feel so tall!
I love that I am living in a Greek house, I get to experience more the culture and lifestyle of Greece than I would in an apartment or hostel. However, I have learned that those white houses and blue tops you see in pictures are mainly churches and in famous towns such as Santorini and Crete. Not every house is white and blue. Oh and the reason they are white and blue is because it is Greece’s colors, check out their flag.
I have learned 5 words in Greek. I do know the alphabet due to being in sorority for three years, which apparently I was pronouncing Delta Zeta incorrectly as I was told by Ana and Yai Yai it is not Delta Zeta but Dee-le-ta Zai-tea (that may not even be right). I have learned Yashu (Ya-saus) for hello, Na (Nay like the horse sound) for yes, Antio (An-deo) for good-bye, Paiti (Pa-tea-ah) for town square, and (I don’t know how to spell it) if-gar-rea-sto for thank you. As much as I would love to learn the Greek language the phonics of it is hard as all get out and I have to take a test for the Peace Corp when I get back so I am just going to stick to studying my Spanish for now and just pick up on the necessary words.
So I guess after all this information you could have read in a book, you are wondering about the actual adventures I am enduring on, aren’t you? Where to begin: the radio-active springs, the 3 George’s, the children, the wine festival, the Greek wedding, the beaches, or my night out to the bar with Stephanie. Let’s start here:
Adventure Story 1
As most of you know I have a unintentional habitat of dating someone and then the next man I date has the same name, for example this past year I dated one Justin followed by another Justin. This habit has followed me to Greece. Within 2 days of being here I met 3 George’s. The first one is 93 years old (“Now I ain’t sayin she is a gold digga”-Kanye West), okay but seriously don’t get the wrong idea here, he has decided within 30 minutes of talking to me I am to marry his grandson that is coming here from the states in about a week. Sadly, he doesn’t know how much I disagree on arranged marriage or that I am in no (or never have been for that fact) position to be in relationship. The second George is 19 and recently moved back here with his family from New Jersey. This George reminds me of a dear friend of mine, Matt Griffin. Matt is very sweet, kind to everyone, and will always go out of his way to make you feel appreciated-George is the exact same. And with as much as George keeps asking his cousins to “put in a good word for him”—I do not believe there is any chemistry between us George. The next George is thirty, and we all know how I love older men. It’s very simple, they are just more mature and the “game that is always played” isn’t there (or at least in most cases it isn’t *cough*cough*). George owns a bar, one of the trendiest and coolest bars in town, which has became very helpful in the fact he always gives me my drinks for free and lets me make long distance phone calls for free. George asked me to go with out with him my first Saturday night in town, it was going to be a fun night starting a 2am (bars close here at 11am, I am serious people start drinking at 12am and go to 11am, I feel Wilmington did not prepare me enough for this) of where we would meet at his bar for some cocktails to go to Tazo and to end the night dancing at Wha-Wha. However, on Friday night the family invited me out for an extravagant unexpected drunk evening…
Friday night, the family and I went to a Panhetti which in Greek means “a big party”. This “big party” was filled with wine, lots of wine and I do love wine and so do the Greeks. Because the drinking age here is 12+, Demetria (the mother) lets the girls have a glass of wine. This wine bottle we are drinking from is from a man down on the other end of the table that wanted to dance with his son in return for 2 bottles of wine (of course I obliged). I also was able to get a free beer that night due to the fact my “cute-American accent” shows when I say thank you in Greek. I would like to take the time to tell you I have a pretty high tolerance for my age, however, Greek wine is nothing like American wine. There are no chemicals; it is all natural, and very, very, VERY strong! I danced the Greek dances (in the most American way possible), drank the Greek wine, and was very dramatic and loud like the Greeks around me (finally a place I fit in!)! When leaving the Panhetti, Stephanie and I decide to go to Wha-Wha (ya know, the club George is taking me to tomorrow evening?), so we go and I find out the way Greeks dance in clubs is the way I dance in my underwear in my room (I AM FINALLY WHERE I BELONG!!!) I couldn’t be happier! As we are dancing the way God intended us to, 7 men come out of nowhere. Don’t worry this isn’t a scary story! These 7 men speak Greek and Stephanie can only translate so much for me, but as you may know I am becoming quiet fluent in Spanish. So I ask Tu habla espanol? And he responds si! So there we are at 4 in the morning dancing the morning away in Greece, conversing in Spanish. I feel I must grant Stephanie some props as she would occasionally step in with a word or two in Spanish but never an actual sentence for example, when we were leaving she came up and said “el bano” and ran off. Props for Stephanie! During this miraculous Spanish conversation these 7 men start bring us random shots, after shot, after shot, after shot. I have travelled before and I am suppose to be the responsible one here considering I am the Au Pair and so I just start throwing the shots behind me, drenching whoever stood there. Once Stephanie tells the boys “el bano” of where we are going, we leave. Of course, we are walking back when we notice we have these random men following us; thankfully one of Stephanie’s cousin’s who is also named George gives us a ride on his mo-ped. All three of us are on his tiny mo-ped making our way through Ikaria back to Yai Yai’s house. This whole time during this ride, Stephanie constantly reminds me to watch my legs so I will not get burned. I did as she said and didn’t get burned. Unfortunately, Stephanie did not take her own advice and burnt her leg. The next morning I awake to a terrible confused hang over (I didn't drink much remember?) including a migraine and nausea-all in which subdue me to stay home Saturday night after the Greek Wedding of course.
On Saturday, I took the girls to the rock-pebbled beach in efforts to relax me and keep them entertained. After a long day of napping, I went with the family to my first Big Fat Greek Wedding! It was unimaginable the amount of people and food there! I was in food heaven! As I still wasn’t feeling well, I ate 2 Greek salads, loads of bread, pasta, and some kind of meat (the girls said it was pig, but I am pretty sure it was cow). After eating, I took a few pictures but I was in no condition to be in company at a Greek wedding. So Zoë and I walked back home, as much as I thought about going to the Paiti to tell George I wouldn’t be accompanying him that evening, it was just too much to even think about the stairs I would have to climb on the way back (see picture). So I went home and past out. Needless to say, George was not happy with me the next morning. But after explaining my situation, he generously understood while offering me a (free) smoothie. He explained to me that the only thing I can drink in Greece was vodka. When I asked why, he said I would see. I still didn’t understand what he was talking about, until he finally told me many bars tamper with their beer and liquor and it gets people drunker in order to buy more drinks and wine here is not like American so people can get very sick. George went to Athens for 4 days and when he is back, we will try this whole thing again.
Adventure Story 2
We have had some fun times so far here in Greece! Just the other day I took the girls to the radio-active hot springs. These hot springs are above an old inactive volcano. These springs are to help with illness, arthritis, etc… An adult can only be in there for a maximum of 20 minutes. The beaches here are full of rocks and pebbles and naturally they are slippery. Being the Au Pair, I have to go out and find the safest way to the spot that isn’t so hot but isn’t so cold! Of course, while I am making my way out, what do I do? I slip and fall on my butt in the hottest water! I literally slip and fall and jump back up onto the rock! All while I have an audience of three girls laughing their butt off at me! Yesterday, I took Zoë and Ana to another beach full of cliffs to jump off of. I am pretty sure the area we were in was part of where the pirates used to dock back in the day (and yes I have done my research pirates came to Ikaria often). Anyway, we swam out to the rocks out in the ocean (see pictures) and jumped off. Okay well really it took each of us about 30 minutes to jump the first time because we were so scared but afterwards we were fine! The water here is so clear and you can see so far down! The rocks are sharp and full of sea salt but the country is just beautiful beyond words! I've enjoyed my first week here in Greece! I I am delighted to be their Au Pair and can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings for us! It’s funny last year when I was in Australia, I always talked about going to Greece the next summer, I didn’t know how I was going to get here but I did it! Isn’t it ironic how things work out? My trip to Australia taught me so much about myself and I gained so much independence that was defiantly needed. I am interested to see where this journey takes me! So stay tuned! Antio!


Greek Orthodox Church

Greek Orthodox Church

Jumping off Rocks!

Jumping off Rocks!

Posted by Rachelabby 05:29 Archived in Greece Comments (0)

I Survived the Bloody Irish

Australia 2010

Soooooo I am a bit of a rebel looking for some good ole trouble and trust me that is what I found....
Last Tuesday night we decided to go to Amigos a Mexican bar here that has delcious tacos but is freaking expensive!!! And lord knows that I am too broke to buy my own drinks so what do I do? Well what any other American or Aussie girl would do thats broke for that matter; I get a man to buy my drinks and it was his birthday. But he invites us to come to the dorms at the uni the next evening at 6:30pm (i told you those Aussies start early) to pre game and go out. So Wednesday night the girls and I dress to the nines and look our finest and go to the dorms on the uni. We are introduced to goun which is basically boxed wine in a bag. And trust me and all my mates it most defiantly got the job done for us. It was insane there were so many people in that tiny space all drinking goun. So we spent the next three hours drinking this cheap goun till the drunk bus came and I am telling you there were over 50 people with us going to the bar! Its not like America were you and your three mates have a few beers and then go out to the bar; no its you and 50 Aussies get together get hammered drunk and then take a drunk bus to the bar! Not to mention on this drunk bus you sing the most vuglar, cheap, funniest sing-a-longs all the way to the bar!!! Oh and before loading the bus I decided to do cart-wheels drunk which obviously didn't end up well so I had a mate Brigsby carry me to the buses while Kelly decides it would be a great idea to just pop a squat out in the open in front of the bus stop; in front of 50 drunk Aussies. Of course she falls and because we are her true and dear mates we pick her up and drink some more guesss what??? GOUN!!!!!
Once we get to the bars; which happens to be down the street from our hotel; we go into the Ivory which bars here are not like bars back in Wilmington. They have a lounge and the dance floor which rages and the bar of where its not like the beach bar its like get your drink and order another and another and another and another and then go rage on the dance floor!!! Wait a second, why isn't Will on the dance floor? Because Will was too drunk to get into the bars and in OZ land if you are too drunk or not even too drunk if they just suspect it you are not allowed in because its a liablity to them. So Nick took Will back to the hotel and Nick came back.
Welp Abby's broke so what does Abby do? Flirts with the poor boy of whose's name she can't remember and buys her a drink. During this time LaQuinna gets hit by a guy who was a racist which is funny because we thought Australia was laid back and not racist. But really Australia has a lot of issues with race and color especially with Aborigines, its an on-going battle with color and them.
So we go back to the hotel....everybody...everybody but Kelly....oh where is Kelly.... I sobered up real quick when I found out she wasn't with us. But our dear friend Alex brought her back and then us proud American girls kicked him out and send him on his way. Needless to say we were late the next day to class.

Friday we took a day trip to Kiama. Kiama is much like a British countryside at the beach. It was beautiful and quite. We saw the blowing hole, where the ocean water comes in and blows the water up wayyyy high. Then we went and had fish and chips and Aussie classic and it was delicious. There mayonise has a bit of horseradish in it but its sooo goood and the ketchup here is called tomato sauce and has more of a vinegar taste to it. Friday evening we left to go on our surfing trip, once we arrived at the camp the instructors were drunk becaue of the IRISH!!!!!!! There were Irisih folk in Australia and they were here to surf and so were we. But at 11:00pm at night it was FREEZING, so the girls and I went to our cabin of where it was still freezing and our accomdation was not accomdating. The beds were full of sand and our sheets were not clean. But we are "strong american women that can do this" and we turned on the heater and layered up and eventually fell asleep. Early next morning we had breakfast and got ready to go surfing even tho it was still FREEZING!!! I can begin to tell you how cold I was, so we slowly put on wetsuits because we are "strong american women that can do this"!!!! We went out to the ocean and it was beautiful; you know how you see those photos of Thailand of the secluded beaches...well this was it ...it was just freezing but gorgeous!!!! The water was such a pure translent blue and it matched the weather!!! The waves were literally 9, 10, 11, 12 FEET HIGH!!!! They just barricade on top of you, it takes so much strength from you to get out there but when you do and you get that wave there is nothing in the world that can stop you or bother you; you are untouchable and it feels amazing!!!!!

Later that evening after supper, the Irish were playing a drinking game similar to circle of death and it looks fun so Abby little American Abby who has only been drinking for two years decides to join in. I don't know what I was thinking when I did this but I did it. The are very, what is the word I am looking for.... strenous...fanatic...long lasting something around those lines about their drinking. Needless to say I lost this game and I had to drink a pint of god knows what vodka, redwine, white wine, tequlia, beer everything and more into this pint and I drinked it and it was horrible but I am a "strong American woman that can do this" and I did it. And I became new fond friends with the Irish. The Irish who were so impressed with my drinking skills decided it would be in my best intrest to climb the steepest hill known to man kind and to attend a pub keep in mind I have to be up at 7am. I am drunk and with the Irish and I have a longggggg ways to go. So we go to the pub and the drinks keep coming. I can't really tell you what happend I can only guess from photos. However, during this lovely event I did get something off my bucket list. Yes I knocked something off that list, I made out with a leprachuan. And yes there are pictures of me and this leprachuan who so graciously walked me back down the steep hill and took me back to my cabin of where I passed out (alone). Thank you leprachuan. And the next morning when I staggeredly walked out of the cabin to eat breakfast at 7am all the Irish yelled my name with an applause. Thank you, thank you.

And with that I drinked with the Irish, I kissed the Irish, and I survived the bloody IRISH!!!!!

Posted by Rachelabby 05:27 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

WTF Mate I'm In Australia

Australia 2010

So its my fourth day in Australia and its been amazing!!!! My fellow mates are kick ass and my room is pretty sweet. But who cares about that?! Our first day here and we found out we are all of legal drinking age 18+ so of course we went and go a beer but then found out you have to BYOB at restaurants. So we sent the boys out for a beer run as we waited for out food, I ordered an Australia classic (potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chili sauce) Yumm delicious! As the boys came back we had our first Australian Beer (VB) it cost out the wazoo for a bloody 12 pack, $45!!! Saturday evening we went out to dinner, it gets dark here very early 5:30 pm! And the Aussies dress to the nines when they go out! Sadly, internet usage here is limited, so I will only get on when I am at Uni (University of Wollongong prounced Wall-en-gong)
Sunday we went to the beach and man waves here are gnarly! 9 FEET!!!!!!!! So we've decided to take a gandar this weekend and go down to Canberra for surfing! The Aussies think its bloody freezing here but its only 20 Celusis and the water is 18 Celusis. Feels Great to me!!! Thankfully, because I packed alot of summer clothes! I explored North and South Beach and took lots of pictures, I've gotten into photography since I've got here.
Monday was full of adventures, we went to the Sumbai Zoo for a special VIP tour. I feed the joeys, pet the kolas, and had a python around my neck!!! Don't worry lots of pictures and videos will be upload when I arrive back in the States. We also took a drive on the Grand Pacific Drive, and with my fear of heights I didn't realize how high we were till I got to the top of Cliffhanger Mtn. and I freaked out! But no worries, I had my mates there ;)
And last evening we had our welcoming dinner at Mylan Vietnamese Restuarant. We had so many entrees and appetizers to split between the group and it was delicious. And don't worry we had very good wine between all of us. We proceeded to the nearest bar called Hotel Illawera. My first drink was on the bartender because his impression of my 6 inches heels. But I thinks its just because I'm an American girl and well you know how the Aussies love the American Girls ;)

Posted by Rachelabby 13:47 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

(Entries 6 - 10 of 10) « Page 1 [2]